Raised decks

From the back door outwards

The best raised decks start with the door. We measure the height of your threshold, then how far the ground falls across the garden. That tells us whether you need one platform, a deck with steps down, or a series of levels that step with the slope.

In Nunthorpe and Marton the fall is often gentle, and a single deck with two wide steps does the job. Off the Ormesby Bank side and on some of the newer plots in Coulby Newham the drop is more pronounced, and a split-level design keeps each part at a friendly height. More detail is in our guide to decking for sloping gardens.

Strength where it counts

A raised deck carries people, furniture, sometimes a hot tub, and it has to stay rigid when the wind blows across it. We use deeper joists and beams, brace the posts, and set every post on a concrete pad sized for the clay underneath. Where the deck fixes to the house, we use a properly fixed ledger and keep it below the damp-proof course, or build a freestanding deck if the wall isn't suitable.

Planning permission and Building Regulations

Decking is usually permitted development, but not when any part of it is more than 30cm above the ground. Most raised decks therefore need planning permission. We'll measure and tell you honestly at the visit, and help with the drawings and information the council asks for.

For safety, any edge with a drop of more than 600mm needs guarding to the height set in Building Regulations guidance, and steps need even risers and goings. Have a look at our balustrades, steps and lighting page.

Using the space underneath

The void under a raised deck is useful. We can close the sides with composite fascia or timber slatting and fit a door, giving dry-ish storage for bikes, garden tools and cushions. Ventilation still matters, so we leave gaps for air.

Your questions